Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Hello Steve
My experience with water in the underfloor and bow tanks of Speed hulls: Invariably water has found its way in through the hatch covers and the transom bung. Have heard of centre board case top joint leaking but personally not had any experience with this.
I carefully reseal the hatch cover bases on a bed of silicon (sikaflex preferred) and ensure the cover gaskets are in good condition and working, have even made my own gaskets out of silicon which work better.
Same applies to transom bung; re-seat base and I replace the bung ‘O’ ring on a regular basis.
After doing above my tanks have remained dry after extensive periods of sailing even after boat has been on its side or upside down.
With regard to your question about water in and draining the bow tank; there is a bung in the bulkhead between the bow and floor tank. Mine is on the port side. You will find this bung impossible to see, very difficult to access through a hatch and almost impossible to open. In persistence once made a tool to remove one, think it involved a ratchet and extension, sorry did not keep it and forgot the design as I’ve no intention to repeat the operation. Instead will use a sponge and dry inside with a hair drier. With the hatches sealed my philosophy now after every sail is to air the tanks and prevent any pressure build up due to temperature change by removing the bulkhead and stern hatch covers – leave floor hatches sealed if boat is to be left flat or bow down to prevent water in hull entering tanks.
Hope this helps however if problem persists check other fittings and screws into tanks are sealed and come back for further advice.
Best regards
Duncan
Hello Pete and welcome to the GP14 Class.
Yes you are right you are missing ‘cheeks’ that take up this gap you refer. Some older boat had a cast aluminum piece attached to the mast at deck level. In the absence of this cast piece, I would glue or screw wood or similar to the inside faces of the mast gate so they equally take up all the sideways clearance, then the mast can slide in out but has no side movement.
If you want further specific advice consider taking a few pictures or can email me on duncan.greenhalgh@outlook.com
All the best
Duncan
Hello Les
I consider you are right about mainsheet force causing the deck ply to lift. Fashion changed a few years ago to the system you have with split tail mainsheet. The previous method which sounds like your boat had was with an adjustable mainsheet horse, turning round a block or fairlead on a strong point under the stern deck to the cleats you mention.
I would reinforce the deck as Oliver recommends or provide a fixing on a strong point to end off the split tails. This will remove all verticle pressure from the deck ply. What you are suggesting would be ok but would still have a vertical force component on the deck which I am guessing it was not designed to carry.
Best luck Duncan
Hello Les
First congratulations on becoming the owner of GP14 12811 and welcome to the GP14 Association.
After looking at your photo’s enlarged on a desktop monitor I do not consider you have a major problem and tend to agree with the advice given by Oliver; that is to make a permanent repair using Epoxy then strip and revarnishing the affected area. You have indicated this would be during the winter and are looking at a temporary repair now so you can enjoy some sailing in the mean time. My advice for a temporary repair if appearance is not an issue would be to; dry the area best you can then cover the cracks with duct tape and sail on for the rest of the year.
When you decide to make a permanent repair I would offer the additional suggestions:
- Before you start thoroughly dry out the affected area, possibly with gentle heat or a dehumidifier positioned blowing from inside the affected corner.
- Clean out debris and old glue from the failed joints (I use a fine tooth hacksaw blade). When pressure is applied with a clamp or weights to the deck it will close the gap and when glued the deck will be flush with the gunnel.
- Mask off an area you don’t want spoiled by over-runs or splashes of epoxy. Glue and fill all the gaps and fillet the inside corners for extra strength – this procedure may need more than one application.
- It is not a large area to strip back the varnish; I would use a dry scraper on any loose or peeling varnish (could do this before glueing), then use a sander to flatten the filler, feather into the sound varnish and prepare the surface for sealing and revarnishing. It is unlikely you will remove all the water staining that is evident, common to see it on boats a few years old. Caution do not over sand the deck and transom; otherwise you will go through the top ply. If you discover any soft wood a coating of epoxy may suffice, avoiding replacing it with new timber.
I hope this is of some help; please do not hesitate to get back in touch if you need clarification or need further help
Good sailing hope we see you on the water soon
Duncan
Hi Chris – Please can you give me a call or drop an email to president@gp14.org or send details via Julie in the office.
Cheers
Duncan
Hello Alan – hope you enjoyed Brixham
A little bit of water in the tanks is not an issue. However if you want to seal in my experience the hatch covers and bungs are the first area to look at:
Consider re-seating the hatch bases on silicon and renewing the cover gasgets. Same applies to bungs in the transom, the ‘O’ rings quickly deteriorate for some reason I change mine on a regular basis.
If you still get water in the tanks after sealing hatches and bungs look at screw fixing blocks etc to the floor.
Let me know if you cannot find anything obvious I’ll explain how I check for leaks.
Duncan
Duncan
Absolutely agree Dale; Championship organisation is in the very capable hands of Gill Beddow and her Championship Committee they do a fantastic job thank you for showing appreciation – let us support them now:) Duncan
Hello Alan welcome to GP14’s. Hope you enjoy setting up and sailing your boat – plenty experts around if you need any free help or advise
The blade hold down arrangement on the rudder stock you show changed design, so the picture might be misleading. The red pivot is a cam that rotates into a semi circle cut out at the top of the blade locking it in down position. Later preferences which yours might be if there is no cam and red pivot. The other variant had a rope hold down fixed to the front face of the blade above the water line. The rope turns around the round spacer towards top rear of the stock (can just see the nut holding it in place on your pic). Rope exits the stock through the gap under the tiller via a 2:1 to a cleat usually half way along the tiller.
Hope this brief gives you an idea to investigate, however if you want further or picture of mine send me your email to duncan.greenhalgh at gmail.com may help if you send a picture of the parts you have.
Best wished Duncan
Hello BarnacleBill
Welcome to the GP14 Class: I read your post with interest for several reasons but at this time will pick up on just one point; I sail (very occasionally at Derwent, however our Vice President Ann Penny is often there sailing her GP – ask anyone they’ll direct you, she will introduce you and family to all the other GP sailors at Derwent and tell you about some of the cruising opportunities your family might enjoy.
Let me know when you are going to the Res I’ll try and get across. However I’m medically banned from sailing for a few more weeks but going to the Scottish Championships this weekend for purely social reasons. Hope meet up soon contact duncan.greenhalgh at gmail.com.
Duncan
Sorry the link does not work – here it is copied again from the relevant page:
http://www.yachtsandyachting.co.uk/awards2015/
If the link does not work please copy and paste it in main think we all vote.
For info, someone please advise if any errors.
Combs 13 April
R Windermere 26/27 April
Hollingworth Lake 11 May
Southport 25 May
Budworth 1 June
West Kirby 26 July
Burwain 5 October
Great Irish Nationals at Sutton well done indeed to all involved.
Looking forwards to 2014 Worlds at East Downs should be another great event.
Welcome back Steve – hope we’ll meet up on the circuit next year.
Please will you send your contact details to Julie in the office, sure will sort membership out for you. don’t hesitate to contact me direct if can’t get it sorted duncan.greenhalgh@ukgateway.net.
Suggest you put a ‘wanted’ ad on the classified page for a boat never know someone may be thinking of changing.
Best wishes
Duncan
Thank you Duncan and Mike for highlighting the issue with the rules as posted on the web. There are a few items out of date and we are doing our best to update any docs when highlighted, so plese continue to post here alternatively drop me or Hugh Brazier an email and we’ll do our best to make the necessary changes.
As far as the class rules are concerned we are indeed working with ISAF to reformat them and Technical Committee have the unenviable job of correcting some anomolies. This will not be an over-night project please bear with us as we undertake this complicated task.
Let me or any member of the Technical Committee know if you have any suggested changes either to how the rules are pressented or potential ammendemnts that will keep the GP modern and up to date yet most important retain the principal of the class.
Duncan Greenhalgh
