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Hello Les
The wear is not unusual and it’s worth keeping a regular check on the rope loop. Splicing a new rope tail is not difficult and 3-strand polyester is OK. If the mast is not down, attach a line to the masthead shackle to allow you to pull out enough halyard for comfortable working. Make enough tucks, probably at least 4 and keep the ends tidy to minimise jamming, consider whipping them. For the future always ensure the rope is not pinched on the rack by the halyard, the pressure will increase the wear rate.
Good luck
Norman
Hello Steve
I agree with Oliver that twisted rope, cheap and easy to splice, is often used, the load hardly justifies high spec braided though it’s a good idea to keep checking for wear. I also am particular about ensuring that the line loop is not trapped between the hook of the tensioning system and the halyard loop, which can cause damage.
Regards, Norman
Hi Alan
I have used International Interdeck successfully on a wheelchair ramp and can recommend it, but, if all you are wanting is a small area on the floor of a GP, it would be an expensive answer. Ordinary paint or varnish, dusted with dry sand before it dries will give perfectly satisfactory results. Try to get a gritty sand, preferably sieved to ensure consistent particle size.
Good luck
Norman
Hello again Alan. You mention to Oliver uncertainty about attaching the downhaul to the blade. My blade has a notch, a sector of a circle, where the cam was designed to engage. With the blade lying on the stock I determined the line of pull to the pin/sheave at the back of the stock into this notch and drilled a 5mm hole about 25mm deep along the blade centreline to meet an 8mm hole drilled across the blade to hold a knot in the end of the downhaul. Hope this is understandable, a picture would be better but is not immediately practicable. Mail back if required.
Norman
Hello Alan. My rudder (GP13511) was as the illustration but the cam arrangement was a curse, it slipped on the spindle so you were never sure if it was released or not, and I have recently modified it to a downhaul and cleat. I fitted a sheave at the back but didn’t think to use a 2:1 purchase as Duncan describes. Enjoy the boat.
Norman
Hi
I can’t see the pic. all I get is “small bitmap”. Could you please check and clarify if possible.
Re Oliver’s comment on scarph joint, you need a solid bench (or table) and a sharp plane. The operation is not too difficult if you line up one piece of ply with the table edge (or a straight-edged sacrificial sheet). good side up. Lay the next piece on top, wrong side up and set back ‘x’ times the ply thickness, where ‘x’ is the ratio of the scarph. (I see Oliver suggests 12 in another mail, but anything over 6 is probably OK). Lay a third piece of “spare” ply with a straight edge on top, again set back by ‘x’ times the thickness. Rest the plane across the three edges and plane gently until the bottom sheet meets the table surface and there is no step between the two work pieces. When gluing, ensure the pieces cannot slip before tightening any clamps.
Re plywood supplies, I have a friend in Ayr who is having the same problem and resigned to ordering from southern England. You might co-operate with an order. Contact me on 01292 570520 before Wed 18th if interested.
Good luck with the project
Norman
