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Hi Paul,
The basic position of the pole should be at right angles to the genoa luff. That’s the “neutral” position.
Yes, take the downhaul as you describe through the deck just in front of the mast, and bring it out on the centreboard case where you can easily reach it.The uphaul tension needs to be enough so that when you ease the downhaul the pole will rise.
When flying the kite, pull it round until the windward edge just starts folding over. If it folds in the middle then the pole height is correct – if it breaks at top or bottom then raise/lower the pole.Hope that helps
Chris
@KennyJack “It seem to me that less and less people are sailing GP14″s ”
Nationally maybe so, as Oliver has covered in his comments. But it’s not all doom and gloom!At my own club (Budworth S.C in Northwest England) we have 34 boats in the park, and a good fleet sailing on the lake, with many newer sailors sailing our “club” GP’s. In addition we have several youth sailors racing successfully in GP14.
Last weekend (end of June) our youths won the Southport Junior 12 Hour endurance race, so no lack of enthusiam there. Alo four GP’s entered the Lord Birkett event on Ullswater.
Budworth is only 100 acres, so we focus on racing and fleet racing as well as handicap racing. We do allow GP14 to race single-handed, but I agree that regular crews are in short supply.
We are blessed with several enthusiastic experienced members who give their time to encourage less experienced members. We have found that training for new members (both Adult and Junior courses) is essential to keep them – not just RYA Levels 1 & 2, but supporting them outside of that – For example we have a good group of “Better Sailors” in all classes who sail on Saturday mornings with experienced members giving chats and on-the-water advice, and this gives them the confidence to start racing.
Chris.
Now that’s a good point Rob! The current search box does not include Forum posts, and I guess it should, or we should have a separate search feature just for the Forum. It’s does not currently exist but I will look into this and see if that can be done!
Thanks for mentioning it
Chris
Hi Johnny,
I am a racer, not a cruiser, so I am sure Oliver will give you more specific advice, but my two cents is:
You think you might fit an outboard, so that plus “cruising” means I suggest an older Mark II (underfloor bouyancy) wood boat. Buying an older boat will save you a LOT of money, and new-ish boats are designed for racing. My previous GP14 was number 13509, 20 years old but was in very good condition, and that type of boat and age (so around that number) might suit you. I would recommend you test the wood on the transom near the transom flaps and bung holes) to make sure it is sound, as that is one area that can give problems.
Chris
Steve, thanks for pointing out the broken link, which I have now repaired, members can access this at http://gp14.org/members/members-2/all-about-your-gp14/ 🙂
Chris (Webmaster)
Hi jaldiman,
To add to the discussion, I asked a marine chandler the question, and the reply was as follows
“Hi The most popular size is the biggest we supply the 40litre. https://www.sailboats.co.uk/crewsaver-mast-floats-40-litre Even this will still not prevent the mast inverting. But it will give you the longest time to get on the centreboard. This is used by all sailing schools. Kind regards Sales”
Certainly when I have been on custom dinghy sailing holidays (Minorca Sailing) over many years, the 40 Litre masthead float is used on RS200/400 etc., and I have seen many capsizes but never seen one invert with the float!
Hope that helps
Chris
Update: And now you can read it here on the website! Affordable Classic GP14
It’s a great article, thanks to Oliver Shaw, Steve Parry, and others that put it together 🙂(Webmaster)
Thanks for the update Oliver, the website is now updated to point to the latest version!
See the item on this page in the Members Library: http://gp14.org/members/members-2/all-about-your-gp14/Hi Oliver,
I believe Rodney Pattison was a past member of Budworth Sailing Club, so I have emailed some of the more mature members to see if anyone knows the history and his achievments
Will add anything I find out
Chris
The modification is based on approved changes submitted by class-recognised boat builders, including appropriate strengthening etc.. I don’t believe we have any plans to provide structural information for “home” modifications, so any changes would of course be at your own risk to the boat.
Anyone else have comments?
Yes, check out Oliver’s very comprehensive note on Travelling with your GP, which covers the whole process of packing and trailing.
Go to the Members Area/All About your GP14 and the “Travelling” article is at the bottom of the section Boat Preparation and Tuning, along with lots of other good stuff!
Yes, Chris (the other Chris!) makes a very fair point – even on MK2 wooden boats around the 13000 number I have seen rot around the bottom of the transom, as you mentioned 🙂
Hi Roy,
As suggested, chandlers stock a range of drain plugs, e.g. Allen here https://www.allenbrothers.co.uk/range/?pid=cjlf6lozp0064d1v40ojuqeke&cid=cjlf6kjph0007c3v42i35ov4t
@Nigel,
I am advised by Graham Knox, another long-standing member of the Association and Committee, who is certain of the following “moulded by Bourne Plastics with a number beginning with 68. This is on a metal plate, port side under the bow deck. This records that the boat was moulded in 1968 and the allotted sail number is the following four digits. This comes from my past as Secretary! I am certain that i am correct!”
So your plate number of 686454. gives a hull number of 6454!
How to re-thread your halyards in the mast?
Ed: The traditional method is described in the Basic Boating Book and is still relevant, but I have also received a note on another method of re-threading halyards (Thanks Oliver!) which may be easier if you have a long rod and enough workspace, as below:
Note that Richard Estaugh’s stated method for threading the halliards is the old standard method, which of course works well (including also for wooden masts), but when I collected a new mast from his firm around ten years ago the method they used was much easier. However you do need a horizontal working space at least twice the length of the mast; so for most of us either the club lawn or the boat park would be the place to do the job.
- Lay the mast horizontal on either a (long) workbench (or resting on two benches spaced apart), or on the ground.
- Remove all the halliard sheaves (one would want to do that anyway even in the “standard” method).
- Remove the heel fitting.
- Make up a very long wooden batten, at least as long as the mast, with a wire hook or loop on the end.
- Push this batten up the mast to the appropriate halliard sheave, hook on the halliard, and pull it through.
- Pull the halliard out through the appropriate aperture at the bottom.
- Re-insert sheaves and heel fitting.
Job done!
