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Thanks Les, that’s the sort of nice simple answer I was looking for. All I need now is to improve my welding .
Norman
Hi Pechlivanis
Spreaders will probably only be sold in pairs and I don’t think GP spreaders will differ much from those of other, similar sized dinghies. Royal Mail will send an untracked parcel to Greece in 3-5 days for a price I can justify on the grounds of some of the “will come in useful” stuff in my garage actually being used. Please email me direct: norman.jeanday@btinternet.com to arrange details.
Norman
Hello Pechlivanis,
Is it a matter of difficulty in finding the correct technical translation? What might be called “cross trees” are referred to as “spreaders” in dinghy circles. Does the mast already have a fitting for them , or do you require that as well? Is it a wooden or metal mast? I have several for aluminium masts and you are welcome to them if the delivery is not too expensive. I also suggest that you look at some of the tuning guides.
Norman
Thanks Oliver
I think you are right in that the main concern for a combi is to have the correct balance on the road and accept a compromise for launching, mine is to thave the optimum launching trolley. I did try a lash up of clamping an axle and wheels forward of the original axle and, in order to reduce the loading height, on top of the side arms of the ‘A’ frame. It was unsuccessful because the axle too easily fouled the keel during the loading process. My current thinking is to fit the axle below the frame but to have cranked ends in order to lower the frame relative to the wheels. Fingers crossed
Norman
Thanks to all. Fretz, you haven’t noticed that the link is to my response to your trolley request, but I should like to see what you eventually arrived at. The measurements were in fact taken from a West Mersea trolley, I haven’t compared them with yours Oliver but I used inches as I thought the U.S. still used imperial. I don’t use a jockey wheel and find the original trolley to be very nose heavy when the boat is fully forward. I think my answer may be to broadly copy the construction but move the axle forward. I had been thinking in terms of “perfect balance” but can see the need for a small amount of nose weight.
Norman
Thanks to both of you for your responses. I was aware that thought had been given to tne moment of inertia but my needs are less sophisticated and any plans I have seen which might have marked a CoG would have been pre-decimalisation versions supplied by Bell Woodworking. I am primarily interested in the balance point to help in the design of a launching trolley. I shall perhaps have to experiment.
Norman
Hi Fretz
The measurements were taken from the launching trolley of a commercial combination trailer/trolley. I assume your “yard trolley” is its equivalent though it doesn’t read as though it gets wet! The frame is of 30 mm hollow box section, I think it is 2.5 mm thick. It consists of an “A” frame 4’3″ wide with sides of 5’9″ length. The aft support is on a rectangular 10 & half inch rearward frame extension. I believe this is to improve the weight distribution for towing and should not be necessary in your situation. The commercial support cradles are of moulded fibreglass, the front one 5’9″ ahead of the axle. A wooden support should be easier to make. The handle rises 1’3″ from the front of the triangle at an angle of about 65 degrees. Wheels are pneumatic 8″ plastic trolley wheels.
Because it is designed as a combination unit it is balanced for towing, on its own the trolley with boat is very front-heavy, your swivel wheel will help. Referring to an ancient measuring instruction to get cradle advice, the keel will be 5 3/4″ below the chine at a chine beam width of 4’3″. Axle dimensions need to be added and the cradle needs to be raised sufficient to clear the wheels (sorry if I’m being too obvious). I sail from a shallow beach so favour a lower loading height and large wheels but the above should be adequate for a good level surface. Good luck with the project.
Norman
Hi Steve
You could do worse than contact Alistair Duffin direct, I’ve found him very approachable and helpful.
Norman
Thanks Oliver,
Sorry I have not checked the Forum earlier, I usually get alerts of activity. The sail has been well stored and is clean but, when I got it out I see there are a couple of small amateur patches where I think the shroud has rubbed. It’s use is probably mainly to give an authentic appearance.
Kind Regards, Norman
Hello Steve. No ideas about bow tank, I’ve never really looked into mine, one of the first Speed boats, 13511, but I have had a crack develop at the transom hole where the floor meets the transom. It was repaired by Speed several years ago but I have needed to have another go this winter
Hi
I don’t think one weekend will cause prolems, dirt is potentially more a problem than fresh water in that it may interfere with an eventual repair. If you want to take precations you could apply a strip of waterproof tape over the gap(s).
Enjoy the weekend, Norman
Hello Pete
It all depends on how competitive you want to be. The modern boats operate on very high rig tensions and are built accordingly, excessive tension on an old boat can result in the mast foot penetrating the hull. If you have no tensioning device it suggests you may have a rope jib halyard secured to a cleat. If so, providing it is non-stretch and someone pulls the forestay out hard whilst you tension and cleat the halyard, the boat will sail reasonably well. New sails will normally be built to suit high tensions and spreaders. If you don’t have new sails, just try it and see.
Good sailing
Norman
Hi Pete
There will be people better informed than me, but it sounds as though your mast gate is the width to fit a wooden mast. There were alloy packing pieces available to screw to the mast to convert the elliptical shape to a square section but you could just put flat, wooden packing pieces in which would still allow some fore & aft movement.
Regards
Norman
Hello Les
Re-reading my note, I realise a mistake in advising whipping the strands, I only meant to whip the end of the finished splice. I use masking tape (other tapes would do) to wrap the ends of the strands and continue the wrap to a taper providing a point which makes it easy to tuck them in.
Apologies
Norman
