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WindychippyParticipant
Polishing of the varnish now complete. I have been through the polishing cycle 3 times as each time the finish gets better but Iv’e had enough now. The afore mentioned defects are still there and accepting advice from you knowledgeable guys I think the defects are probably the amine blush that Chris mentioned down under the layers of varnish. I’m told that blocks and fittings are difficult to get hold of at the moment so waiting for the kit supplier to come and rig the dinghy. Covers have been sourced from rainandsun.co.uk in Southampton.
Hopefully a couple of photos attached.
Cheers Windy.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.WindychippyParticipantHi Chris, I used Sicomin SR5550 which is solvent free all measured <span style=”color: #000000; font-family: Roboto, ‘helvetica neue’, helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;”>meticulously on fine scales. No I didn’t wash and scrub with hot soapy water ( Oh dear ) but I did use copious amounts of acetone to wipe when fully cured. Some of the shading is adjacent to the rubbing strips down each side which were bonded on and not screwed. The bonding contained silica which I’m told can be seen after varnishing but all was well taped up to protect from contamination so don’t think it’s that. My wife thinks like you and says not to worry, just get on the water lol. which I will be doing after my RYA1 course in 2 weeks time.</span>
Thank again, Windy
WindychippyParticipantChris, thank you for replying. The varnish is 2 pack Perfection Plus. 2 parts base to 1 part hardener all poured through 190 micron filter into measuring pot and well mixed. All applied during July and Augusts very dry weather in my workshop. The lighting is all LED, not sure if they show imperfections like Fluorescent but actual sunlight through window showed up the lighter shade areas on foredeck today when looking at deck with sun behind me. This shading disappears when looking at the deck facing the sun, ie. the shading disappears, strange. As I said earlier all solid mahogany shows no imperfections only in small areas on the ply of the decks and on closer inspection appears to be under not in the varnish so it may be a problem in the epoxy coats. If this is so then some day in the future will get sorted during a refurb.
Thanks again
Windy
WindychippyParticipantAlthough I now have my trailer and trolley the actual main chock is only 12 cms wide, is this wide enough? as Iv’e noticed in some of the online pictures of GP14 dinghies that they sit on vastly wider chocks as in the picture above of Oliver Shaws dinghy.
While searching for combination trailers this wide type chock seemed not to be offered which leads me to think that the wider chocks might be a special order, if so does anybody know where one could be obtained. I will for now always trailer to the launch site as I’m not using a dinghy park. Thank you.
Cheers Windy
WindychippyParticipantFollowing with interest as I turn my attention from building a GP14 toward being able to sail her, and safely.
My reason for building the dinghy is to create memories for my 3 youngest grandchildren all aged 2yrs 8m. at the moment. My background contains 16 years of windsurfing being mostly from using Longboards where we sail all points of the compass with the longest journey sailed being a circumnavigation of the Isle of Sheppey. Later this year I will be attending the RYA level 1 and then hopefully the level 2 courses so I should have first hand experience on the MOB procedures.
When windsurfing I learnt the hard way when once sailing mid winter in the Solent with failing light I became separated from my board with wind taking the board one way and the tide taking me in the opposite. Nobody on shore to help so after saying goodbye to everybody I started to paddle and kick my way slowly with and across the tide until I touched terra. The Lesson learnt that time was Do Not Let Go of the Boom but an even better rule was to Always sail with a buddy and this has been a rule I have stuck to ever since. But even that rule can come unstuck as once when sailing with an 80 year old buddy again in the Solent off Leap whilst returning to Calshot I passed his board with no sign of my buddy. I eventually found him 100 mtrs down tide but instead of staying with him and at his behest I headed in the opposite direction down wind towards his board. This resulted in a spectacular catapult over the front of my board but I remembering my lesson Do Not Let Go of the Boom this resulted in sustaining two fractured ribs from the impact on the mast as I was swung over. Thanks to a passing racing Yacht, the RNLI and a passing Gin palace all was well.
I would have thought the best way to stay safe on the water in a Dinghy would be as I said above to sail in company (with a buddy) which is surely what cruising is about. But even then nothing is assured which is the point of my above ramblings. With Racing I assume safety cover is always provided.
So Following with interest.
Windy
WindychippyParticipantThank you gentlemen for your replies.
I’m looking at getting a mast support/pad actually incorporated into the Top cover as suggested by my kit supplier, the lighting board would also be strapped on to the overhanging part of the top cover at the transom.
I’ll post a pic if this happens, if it doesn’t then I will follow your advice.
Windy
WindychippyParticipantOliver,
You are spot on regards the lighting board. I have in the last hour received an email from Sovereign Trailers saying “so forgive for stating the obvious but the lighting set extension arms are only to be used when the trailer is used without the boat on it, when the boat is on the trailer then the lighting board goes on the transom and the brackets are completely removed.”
This makes sense as I could not separate the combination without taking the board brackets off, and you would need to get under the hull with a spanner to do so.
So that brings to mind a question. With the covers in position how is the lighting board fixed in place. As my covers have yet to be made perhaps a fixing strap either side of the transom (in the appropriate place) could be included when fabrication takes place!!!
Windy
- This reply was modified 3 years, 6 months ago by Windychippy.
WindychippyParticipantResized and hopefully smaller.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.WindychippyParticipantSo the trailer has arrived. I went through a third party who tows boats for a living and his advice was to go for a Sovereign Trailer ( part of the Welsh Harp group) which Graham Knox mentioned via Oliver. I am very pleased with the trailer and it was slightly cheaper than other makes mentioned.
So thank you once more for advice given.
Regards Windy
WindychippyParticipantThank you Oliver and Bruce for input and advise. I built the dinghy mainly to take my 3 young grandchildren sailing, the twins born the day before my 70th and Holly born 3 day later. So definitely no racing for me, for now!!
I like the idea of the raised clew on the Genoa and this afternoon talked via phone to Mike at Mcnamara sails who also asked about the reefing heights on the main. I have read Oliver’s article on reefing in the members area and reefing heights have been duly noted.
Back to the Dinghy covers. Creation covers finally got back to me and although only 5 miles from me just outside Andover have a lead time of just over 3 months. I’ve also been in touch with Phil at Rain and Sun boat covers who are in Southampton only 24 miles away and will probably use them.
Thanks again Windy
- This reply was modified 3 years, 6 months ago by Windychippy.
WindychippyParticipantThank you Bruce, That is a very neat insert in the picture. That also makes sense moving the track inboard on the Wayfarer but what about the cars. As you reef the genoa I take it the car is moved forward so as to keep the leech tight. ( on the Wayfarer that is) It seems that does not happen on the GP14 using the through deck method. Does this have a detrimental effect on the leech as you further reef the Genoa or is it something you all live with.
Thanks Windy
WindychippyParticipantOliver, thank you for you advise. My apologies re you providing a picture as you actually said “Get back to me if you want details” which you have splendidly provided.
Being new to all this sailing terminology I think I get the gist of your explanation re Genoa sheets and friction caused by the lee lazy sheet if using through deck sheeting, which I will be doing. The Wayfarer shows as to having a genoa track. Is a similar track req. on the GP14, if so I presume it will be fitted on the side deck. Does the deck/varnish wear out at the front end of the fairlead as the sheet passes through? If so then I could beef up the edge before varnishing.
Thanks Windy.
- This reply was modified 3 years, 6 months ago by Windychippy.
WindychippyParticipantHopefully photos will download.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.WindychippyParticipantPhotos to follow when Iv’e sorted the reduction procedure again!!!!
WindychippyParticipantHere is the finished slot gasket for those interested.
The “Y” fairings were glued and fitted to and then painted along with the dinghy.(Another story) The sailcloth gaskets were then laid out and stretched on the bench with the keel bands placed over and hole positions marked. (Thanks to Steve for the stretching tip, shock cord was used.) A neighbour loaned me a hole punch that was duly used to good effect. Front end of gaskets were cut to shape to fit inside the front “Y” and a shaped aluminium plate was fixed on top. The gaskets were then stretched so that the prepunched holes matched up with side keel bands which were then screwed down. Making sure the overlap was approx4/5mm. From previous experience with stainless steel screws I only used a light torque setting on the screwdriver as s/steel screw heads tend to shear off easier than on standard or hardened screws especially as only 3.5mm. Any protruding sailcloth was then removed using a newly acquired scalpel (Also ideal for removing splinter from fingers. IMO) I decided to trim the rear end of the gasket to leave a small area of uncovered slot as I read on another site this can aid drainage of slot. Being totally new to GP14 and having never seen another GP14 dinghy for comparison you will hopefully forgive me if I do things which are untraditional. This particular build is based solely on a racing dinghy, if it was for more general / cruising use then I see great merit for using more abrasive resistant material along the keel and I think even the bilge keels (Or do you already?) Now ready to turn her over and coat the topsides.
Thanks Windychippy
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