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WindychippyParticipant
Thank you Oliver for your explanations. I have mast head buoyancy so won’t be inverting ( as long as I remember to blow the thing up )
Don’t forget Iv’e not sail her yet so I take it that I climb from inside up over the gunwale and pick up the righting line on the way over.
I like the idea of the external line, one each side and I once saw a video on youtube by Matt Sharman showing this type of line on a Wayfarer so will try to find again.
Once again Thank you.
WindychippyParticipantMike, I have just measured the rowlock socket position on my newish wooden Dinghy “Neema” The centre of socket is 1370mm from rear of Transom measured along the side deck. The deck is approx 125mm wide at this point and centre of socket is 40mm from outer edge. When measuring under deck the socket is approx 30mm from inside the hull. The socket is mounted through an under deck support block which sits tight up against the rear side of the 3.5 station former this sits at 1395mm, so the socket is approx 25mm to the rear of that former. Having read a few rowing blogs on line with them giving various formulas and ideal measurements I soon realise that the only measurement that I could glean was the one for how far aft from the seat to place the sockets. The Ideals seemed to place the socket smack on top of the 3.5 former. So to place it just fore or just aft was the decision to be made. I think I read somewhere on this forum that Oliver Shaw place his sockets just aft of 3.5 so I did like wise. Mind you if you decided to place them just in front of 3.5 I think that would work to, just sit with bum overhanging thwart a bit.
I purchased 8ft oars which arrived being only 7ft-10 1/2in and these fit easily under the thwart from the rear. There seems to be room for slightly longer oars may be 4 or 5 ins longer ( they say the longer the better ) If you are going to just row with your family (No mast) then even longer will do but you will need to stow these on the side decks .
All the best Windy
WindychippyParticipantRoy, when repairing soft decked windsurf boards or other damage I have injected expanding polyurethane foam into the core. The under-deck area was open and not honeycombed so the foam could seek, fill and stick the area. Just a thought in case these some way to access the area under your deck.
Windy
WindychippyParticipantHi Jamie,
I have no experience with Series 1 boats but have recently finished a Series 2, so in answer to your question ( What is the suggested order to tackle these repairs? My thoughts were transom, hull sides then deck last. Is this a sensible order?) I’d say your proposed order of repair is the correct one to proceed with. All the best.
Windy
- This reply was modified 2 years, 7 months ago by Windychippy.
WindychippyParticipantThank you both, “spinnaker bags yet to be made and I like the extra pockets idea although these will probably be full of food, lol. Also like the tidy hooks idea which I have to hand. Thanks.
WindychippyParticipantArthur,
Thought I’d reply although I have no handles. It shouldn’t be too hard to cut and shape some new ones yourself. Go to the Wayfarers Association website and search Lifting handles and mast support, that’s if you have not already done so. Nice drawing/ photo of an asymmetrical handle for you to copy.
Cheers Windy
WindychippyParticipantOliver, apologies as it seems I remembered your article GP14 Reefing Systems incorrectly. I have had another thorough read. So having a Genoa with a higher clew I now understand that the Tweaking system mentioned will not be needed. That’s saved me a couple quid. I’ll also take on board the fact that you suggested fixing the reefing system for the main on the starboard side. Thanks.
Windy
WindychippyParticipantMaking a pair of Tweakers for the jib lines.
It wont be long before I pick up my Roller Reefing Genoa which has been cut with a higher clew. So having looked at the pics provided by Oliver in the files I will be passing the lines through a Suitable Thimble which is attached to a spliced rope and this will be passed down through the shroud hole fitting and terminated at a suitable cleat. Question, what type of cleats have the cruisers among you used and where do you fit them.
Thanks Windy
WindychippyParticipantOliver, Thank You, all noted.
Windy
WindychippyParticipantSo, no self bailers on my self build as I have what Oliver calls an unofficial (Series 2A) with the plate case slots.
Norman, I think you are talking about the cut-outs in the side tanks to allow flooding when capsized. In Olivers photo they do seem small in area compared with my own build which has much larger cut-outs, all within the rules though.
Chris, thanks for comment. The bow tank hatchway was cut on the bench pre-build and it’s in through this that the 2 front bungs are accessed. Re the large hole saw, having experience with such like animals over my working life I have at time regretted using them although still a much better option than a jigsaw which would be difficult to turn anyway. So my weapon of choice in this case would be still be a small trimmer in side a circular template as depth could be set exactly. But for now will leave all alone.
Thanks Windy
WindychippyParticipantThank you gentlemen for you reply. As the Dinghy stands at the moment I am fully confident with it’s integrity as all surfaced are double epoxied. Water getting in via bungs is a small worry so will look into getting extra ring seals for periodic replacement. It looks to be a relatively easy job retrospectively to cut the hole for an inspection hatch with a trimmer ( small router ) and a top bearing cutter if used with a template.
Looking at your pic. Oliver I see 4No. hatches, I take it you have 2 more forward. Is that a self bailer down in a cut out alongside the plate case, if so is this something just on the earlier dinghies?
Thanks Windy
WindychippyParticipantHi Jon,
Good luck with your plan/dream. Mine was realised at age 70 to give my 3 new born grandchildren some memories, just need to get it rigged now. No experience regard timber spars I’m afraid but Olivers link to Collars recommend the timber species and I’m sure there are websites out there to help with construction. All the best and when you do start your build please keep this forum informed.
Regards Windychippy
WindychippyParticipantHi Jon,
Welcome to the forum.
Adding to what Oliver has suggested and being a retired joiner I would say that Douglas Fir would be a good choice but if you can then Cedar would be better as it’s lighter and much easier to work with. Douglas Fir although durable can have very adverse grain when cleaning up. Best selected carefully for straight grain. Check out my Self Build on the Association website in the News section. It’s a Mk2 build in ply recently finish and awaiting rigging. My King planks, Carlins, Stringers, Chines, Stem head and Hog were all in Cedar. You say your looking at a Mk 1 build, is this in preference to a Mk 2 build with its extra buoyancy? Hope this helps.
Windy
WindychippyParticipantAnother Pic.
WindychippyParticipantHello, I have a relatively modern ply GP14 and would have thought the through deck sheeting slot would be in the same position as on a GRP built GP14. The following measurements for the slots were supplied by Ginger boats ( Professional )
Measurements to be measured in a straight line.
Stem to front of slot 2255. Transom to rear of slot 2025. This should leave a slot approx 125mm long. The slot is cut on the centre line of the side deck ignoring the rubbing strip and coaming pieces but in case the GRP has no defining way of showing where the side deck starts and finishes (width wise) Iv’e measured mine from the outside of the rubbing strip to centre line of slot = 93mm. Overall width of side deck is 190mm at the slot position.
Hope this helps, Windy.
- This reply was modified 3 years, 2 months ago by Oliver Shaw. Reason: Removal of formatting commands
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