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  • in reply to: Assymetric spinnaker on GP14 #26786
    Will
    Participant

    Thanks Oliver!

    Love the square rigged GP14, but glad that sail technology has moved on and we don’t have to do that anymore!

    I’m not too worried about class rules or handicap – the GP14 class rules expressly forbid single-handed racing (rule 16) and yet the club are happy to have me prop up the numbers on their start line. Fast GP14 sailors use symmetric kites so I presume that’s faster than assymetric, hence I would still be slower than the GP14 handicap number.

    Entertainingly, the class rules set the maximum luff length and pole length, but don’t require the spinnaker to be symmetrical, or set any restrictions on the pole being configured as a bowsprit, so I might even be class-legal with it!

    Downwind sailing with an assymetric is indeed an skilled art, you need to head up onto a reach in the lulls to make boatspeed and apparent wind, and broader down in the gusts towards the mark, and play the shifts.

    Anyway, looking more for anyone’s experience of ‘how’ to set an assymetric rather than ‘why’. Current thinking is to lash some kind of pole to the stemhead fitting and the mast. I’m not worried about the tack of the spinnaker being exactly on the centreline.

    The stemhead lashing could provide the ‘downhaul’ function (resist the upward pull from the kite) as it can resists the (much greater) upward pull from the genoa luff.

    Likewise the stemhead can resist the sideways force from the kite and/or genoa, but I was wondering about also running a guy outward, from the bowsprit end to the shroud bases, to help support the sideways loads.

    Not sure whether to use the existing spinnaker sheet blocks, or sheet it from further forward, many classes have assymetric sheets located at the shroud base.

    Hoping to get hold of a spinnaker from an RS200, which is the same sail area as a GP14’s.

    Need to think how to recover the sail without a chute or retrieval line- anyone suggest something? Otherwise I will try gathering it by hand, under the boom and genoa sheet, in the lee of the main.

    in reply to: Boat Repairs – MK1 #26754
    Will
    Participant

    Well this is frustrating – I accidentally clicked on ‘bin’ and my reply was lost!

    In summary:

    – I would replace the whole bottom panel rather than patch up what you have left. It’s surprisingly less work to fit just one big new panel, than to cut and stick and fair lots of butt joints and backer pieces, especially in the fore tank with limited access.

    – convert the mast step to the (much better) Series 2 design while you have the bottom panels off. Much easier than working through a hatch.

    – don’t make butt joints line up with frames, they’re not wide enough to be backer pieces. Cut back to between frames to give yourself space.

    – there’s a guy on eBay who breaks up old dinghies for parts, he was helpful getting me original thickness plywood and fittings for the mast and keel.

    – ‘Ronseal wood hardener’ is an epoxy dissolved in thin acetone solvent which permeates into old hardwood frames and ‘does what it says on the tin’!

     

    It all feels like drastic surgery but will be worth it when she is back on the water in good condition for her next few decades. Good luck!

    in reply to: Centre mainsheet? #26289
    Will
    Participant

    Another option is off-the-boom sheeting, as popular in the skiff classes. The sheet runs from the split tails on the quarters, to the end of the boom, then along the boom to a ratchet swivel block near the middle of the boom. From there it goes directly to the helmsman. The bitter end is secured somewhere in the boat so it doesn’t get lost.

     

    The advantages are:

    1) the cockpit is kept clear;

    2) the helmsman can tack facing forwards or backwards, the sheet passes over their head;

    3) either of the helm/crew/instructor can work the mainsheet, according to the situation;

    4) there’s one less block, so less friction and easier to install.

    5) the helmsman can sit forward of the thwart – good for going upwind single handed. Or the crew can come aft of the thwart downwind.

    6) the mainsheet supports a little of your weight while sitting out.

     

    I would train beginners with a centre mainsheet though – virtually every class they will sail in future has one, so they really need to learn to tack facing forwards.

    in reply to: Sailing GP14 single-handed #25712
    Will
    Participant

    Great boat to sail single handed, fast and roomy but not too heavy onshore. I fully agree with the recommendation for a genoa roller, it makes a big difference to reduce sail quickly. I use a smaller mainsail, unless it is light wind.

    Also think about how you will right the boat single handed after a capsize, and climb in unaided from the water, it’s quite high. I copied the grabline/righting line system from (I think it was) a Laser 2000, elasticated but with stoppers to make a loop to stand in to get a step up.

    in reply to: Timber for mast step #24974
    Will
    Participant

    Thanks both for your speedy replies!

    I should have mentioned that the double side benches have previously been removed. The remaining single benches are laminated from contrasting stripes of white and red hardwood, they look great but possibly not strong enough for structural use.

    Current thinking is to buy some iroko online. Still pondering if it is good idea to laminate 2x 20mm thicknesses to make up the thicker piece needed.

    Thanks for the pointer to the penetrating epoxy, well worth some thought. Seems to be an epoxy that has been thinned with low-viscosity solvent. There are some strong views (both ways) on various boat and canoe building discussion sites!

    Thanks again for the kind suggestions.

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