Thanks Oliver,

I had no idea the GP was launched at Aberdyfi. That was actually going to be one of my first destinations with it!

I’ve got a week off next week, so hopefully I’ll make some good progress.

Matt

Thanks Chris.

I agree its far easier to do these two large patches than several smaller repairs.

My only concern at the minute is how to curve the ply down onto the chine towards the bow. I thought I’d managed to avoid the worst of the curvature.

I’m rather enjoying the project more than I thought too.

Thanks Oliver..

Hopefully the pics worked this time. Hopefully you approve of works so far.

I know of a commercial paint company, i use through work, so I may give them a call about stripper tomorrow. Ill revert back to Nitromors tho if needed. Glad to hear it’ll not likely harm the epoxy. Seems a waste to strip it all off.

I’ve also got one of the tungsten pull-scrapers. Fantastic bit of kit.

Oliver,

Thank you yet again. Your suggestion of a simpler joint is greatly welcomed. I was concerned about the feasibility of a uniform scarf joint in situ.

My initial thoughts of making the scarf joint midway on a frame, was in order to screw through the joint, and into the frame as a means of clamping it together and forming the correct shape.

I could actually move slightly farther towards the stern, and make a lap joint with a backing piece. The hull has less shape here, so it would be a simpler task. A 75mm x 6mm ply backing strip would be ok, I think?

Can I ask, is there somewhere I am able to find some guidelines as to what an acceptable minimum bonding surface width would be? Say X times material thickness?

Thanks again

Thank you so far to everybody for your help.

I have just completed a membership form, as clearly this website, and you guys are going to be massively helpful to me moving forward! I really appreciate your help.

Can I please run through my repair plan of MK1 (12960) wooden hull, and see if anybody has anything to improve or object to? It’s a bit longwinded sorry!!

I intend to replace the floor section from frame 2(mast foot), through to frame 7 (8ft in length)

1- Get boat under-cover, lay 2 car tyres on the floor alongside boat, and using a helper roll boat onto it’s side, then fully over into inverted position. Support the upturned hull in several places on blocks & stands.

2- Cut old ply bottom out alongside keel strip (keel strip seems to be epoxied into place. I think a lot of damage will occur if I try to remove it?). This should leave approx 25mm of hog exposed in order to attach new ply base to.

3- Mark position of frames underneath the hull. Remove any screws, use a router to remove the ply thickness and epoxy down to the frame below.

4- Use the router with edge guide to machine away the ply base, up to the chine edge. Remove the plywood bottom. Strip varnish from sides of chine strip, hog, and frames.

5- Repair any damaged frames with sapele scarfed & epoxied into place. Replace the stringer along the 8ft length each side with new “obeche” timber to same dimensions, scarfed & epoxied into place. Replace external rubbing strakes “bilge keels?” with new timber “ash or obeche?”

6- Prepare an 8:1 scarf joint midway across the frames no2 & no7.

7- Coat plywood in Epoxy internally & externally. Epoxy and stainless screw the new 6mm “Robbins elite” plywood hull bottom into place using scarfed & epoxied joints at frame no2 & no7, these scarfed joints are then screwed into centre of frames.

8- Epoxy tape any joints onto frames, keel, hog, and the exterior of the chine.

9- Paint it, re-assemble it and enjoy it?

Any suggestions, or critique are gratefully received! 🙂

Many thanks again

Matt

• This reply was modified 5 years, 3 months ago by Taffymat.

Ok…  you guys win! Haha.

I’ve actually had a stroke of luck today. I’ve managed to arrange some indoor space to work on the wooden hull. So my original plan of replacing the bottom continues!

Quick couple of questions if I may?

Are the hull stringers and rubbing stakes usually made from ash timber? As I’ll likely need to source these in advance, ready to replace them.

Marine ply or Birch ply for the bottom? All the marine hardwood plywood at 6mm seem to only be made from 3 plys. 2x thin veneer, with a thicker solid core. This material seems hard wearing, but also difficult to bend? Or do I need to find a different supplier?

Thanks again for your help.

Matt

• This reply was modified 5 years, 3 months ago by Taffymat.

Chris,

Thanks for that. I’m still a little torn myself to be honest. Cruising and pottering about sounds perfect though. It’s a pastime I do with my 8yr old daughter.

I’m definitely going to give both hulls some serious thought, I’m assuming that it is just a case of swapping parts over if it came to it?