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Oliver,
Thanks, I’m feeling pretty pleased with myself! ?
Is there an easy way for me to determine the builder? I’ve noticed the woodwork is a different style to others in the club.
Regards
Matt
Good evening!!!
Well, thanks to the help from you guys, another repaired GP14 took to the water today. Llyn Brenig to be exact. There wasnt much wind about, but that was perfect for me to start trying to figure everything out.
It was brilliant to test her out today, and I’m still feeling very pleased with all the work that went into it. The advice on here has been invaluable!
Big thanks yet again.
Matt
Many many thanks to you both!! Chris that’s fantastic, I had found that you could buy Harken spares, but I had assumed it was an Allen cleat.
That’s extremely helpful of.you to find that for me. Looks like I have a 150 cleat then. Glad you found that for me, they’re nearly £50 to replace the unit!!!
I’m heading over to the boat in the morning, I’ll see if it fits in the mast slot. I’ve just got to re-fit the floorboards, address the transom flaps, and shes all done!!?
Wahoo
Great,
Thanks for that idea of flooding the hull. I had indeed intended to capsize her. But I’ll take your idea for sure!
Can I ask a few more snippets of advice please?
I’ve found a little wooden tee-shaped piece of wood. If seems purposely dimensioned, so I assumed it is a tool or gauge. Have you any suggestion?
Also, any ideas where I can purchase a spring to repair this cam-cleat please? It’s off of a HA/4274 unit.
I’m hoping for a test run next week on Bala lake.
Cheers, Matt.
Thanks both… I’m pretty sure it has plenty of capacity in the buoyancy bags too. The sizes of them I’ll check next week. They are tucked away in works attic currently.
I had a feeling that the bow bulkhead would make make life easier.
At the rear, I’m going to take a look at the 1mm Lexan option for sure.
Thanks again
Matt
Chris,
That sounds like a good way forward with those. Are they screwed on the side if the holes as before? Do you have any pics of this setup please?
If I dont use a hinge do i still need a bungee cord to keep them shut, or would I rely on its natural tendency to flex.
Cheers
Matt
<p style=”text-align: left;”>Ok… progress is still being made.</p>
I’ll post more pics soon. Most of my work is after work, by headtorch at the minute. So difficult to get worthwhile pics.Hoping to finish varnishing this weekend, and re-assembly later on next week.
Being new to sailing, and only ever sailed double skinned, plastic boats. Something that’s been bugging me is how to effect an acceptable water tightness on the transom flaps? and how much of a nightmare is it to get back under way following a capsize in a boat relying on buoyancy bags? Albeit, I do have the watertight bulkhead at the bow. I’m imaging that there will be a massive amount of water within the cockpit once righted?
Many thanks again for your help.
Regards
Matt
Ha, thanks Oliver.. I think it’s to do with not maintaining the aspect ratio when I’ve reduced the image.
They’re definitely parallel. Thanks for all your help so far Oliver. I’d have probably wimped out of this without words of encouragement from you guys.
A little update for anybody that may be interested?
I had the week off work last week, so have made some real progress.
Ended up making the smaller panel the same size because of a few issues I discovered once the paint was removed.
Final gloss coat goes on Wednesday. Then flip her over, sand and varnish the interior and deck.
Ok, keel removed! Forgot my phone though, so no pics yet.
It did come away easier than I feared. All was good underneath, and I will replace the section that was removed. There was a dodgy looking repair made of 6 pieces over an 8 inch section!
I’ve also decided to cut another 2ft out from the smaller repair side. One of the Andersen bailers has caused the bottom of the boat to crack at the corner of the cutout. It rests on the trolley at that point. Seems strange to me that a marine component is designed without radiused corners!
Lots pics next week. I’ve booked the week off work for re-assembly.
