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Oliver, I did indeed 🙂
Since acquiring her I’ve added a reefing furler to the genoa, and more recently reefing lines to the mainsail following your excellent guide.
I’ve also sanded her deck back to the bare wood, expoxied and re-varnished. Slowly fitting her out to be a cruiser, rather than a racer. I can’t tell you how useful and informative your guides have been in helping me with this. I’ve even had a couple of them printed and bound for easy reference.Haven’t sailed her quite as much as I’d hoped, but have been on Bala, and Barton Broad in Norfolk just a couple of weeks ago, so building my confidence up. Hoping to join a DCA event when the stars align with my other weekend commitments.
Best regards.
Thanks Oliver 🙂
I’ve dropped an e-mail to Tim.
In the meantime, have you any suggestions on how to reinforce under the deck to take the forces of the oars?
e.g. type of wood to use, size of the block, how to fit it in place, etc.
(Just in case I’m brave enough to take the job on myself 🙂 )Thanks
Steve
Hi all 🙂
I appreciate this thread is almost 2 years old, but it seemed a good place to pose my question…
I have a series 2 (converted from series 1) which I generally use for cruising, which doesn’t have rowlocks fitted.
Are there any “how to” guides available on fitting rowlocks? Or is this a job best left to the professionals? (I’d be nervous cutting holes!!)
If the latter, can anyone recommend a good dinghy builder in the north west that could make these modifications?Thanks all 🙂
Thanks Oliver.
Very helpful, as always 🙂
I’ve managed to fit the clamcleats and fairleads today, and have ordered a track for the boom sliders.
Thanks Steve,
Yes, I’m looking to attach slab reefing points. A picture of your Comet Trio would be really useful. Thanks
Steve B
The larger cleat came from Callisto Marine in Stockport:
https://www.boatchandlersguide.com/Stockport/Callisto-Marine-Chandlers-1403.asp“<span style=”color: #555555; font-family: ‘Source Sans Pro’, sans-serif; font-size: 12px;”>In passing your photo of the 150 mm ones shows them set up on the wrong sides”, yeah I spotted that after I’d uploaded the photos, and hit “send” 🙂 Doh!</span>
The smaller fairleads came from Reliance Marine Online:
(Forgotten how expensive they were!)
Thanks for taking the time for such a full and informative reply 🙂
I’ve managed to acquire two different sizes of fairleads (roughly 85mm and 150mm) and cleat (100mm and 150mm).
(See pics below).I’m pretty much decided that the 150mm fairleads are a tad too large.
But I think I’m leaning towards the larger 150mm cleat.
But open to other opinions.Thanks Oliver and Windychippy, especially for the photos.
With regards to fitting the mooring cleat, I notice that Oliver’s photo is captioned “…cleat screwed to king plank…” whereas Windychippy mentions through-bolting the cleat. I was planning to use screws (long ones!) to fit the mooring cleat, as I don’t have access to underneath the deck. She has a full height buoyancy tank in the bow, with just a small 6″ inspection hatch.
Thoughts?
Thanks Oliver.
Yes, seen those recommendations in your excellent document on anchoring 🙂
I may have some questions on the “handedness” of the fairleads…
The ones I have bought are much like these:
https://marinestore.co.uk/n-71100-fairleads-pair-left-right-hand-110mm-brass-n-71100-n-71100.html?gad=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsr6ihb7g_gIVUeLVCh2m6Qs1EAQYAyABEgJmWPD_BwEBut there’s no indication as to which is left and right.
My thoughts are that they should be fitted so that the base lines up with the direction of the anchor rope from the deck cleat and over the side. And that the “slot” in the top will then be perpendicular to the rope, which will prevent the rope from popping out of the fairlead as the boat bobs on the water. i.e. in the picture at the above link, the bottom fairlead is the one that goes on the right-hand side of the bow.Is that correct?
