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Hello Steve,
Sorry to be so late in replying—-I had put the repair on hold for the moment but intend shortly to pursue it with a professional repair. I will try to find the article you mention before going ahead. If the extra problems you indicate do exist (and investigating is not easy) then I suspect the cost of repairs will exceed the value of the boat and the only viable solution will be to scrap the hull.
Many thanks for your comments
Maurice
Hello Chris,
I would welcome a discussion, but am unable to interpret the phone number 07977sixsix687 eight5. Could you please help or text me on 07927599656
Many thanks
Maurice
Hi Chris,
thanks for the reply.
I am hoping the ply deterioration is restricted to the mast foot area (due presumably to rain running down the mast), but I need to examine the area more fully. You suggested cutting an access hole in the side of the boat but I am aware of the need not to weaken the shroud area (although I suppose this should not be a problem if I am liberal with the epoxy and fibre when replacing the piece). It would be simpler if I could repair from ‘the top’ i.e. where the damage is already visible, by inserting and epoxying in a piece of hardwood between keel and mast foot, but this would depend on the condition of wood adjacent to the damage (which carries the load of several sheaves) and whether more extensive work is necessary.
I appreciate that I could take it to be repaired professionally, but the cost would probably not be worth it and I would be without the boat whilst the repair is being carried out
Having said that, I would appreciate any comments/guidance so that I can move forward with a sensible plan.
Kind regards
Maurice Cooper
Hello Craig,
the normal way to rig centre main is to use rope which has 2 tails sewn into the rear to form 2 hawses which run to opposite sides of the transom and are tied to the retaining brackets at the rear corners. There is no traveller as such and this system is particularly good since the leeward side hawse is an indicator which indicates the maximum amount the sail may be pulled in when sailing upwind —-should be a bit of slack as a minimum, otherwise it will overcome any kicker setting you have.
The hawse arrangement is shown in a photograph in the ‘beginner’s guide to rigging a GP14’ on the website .
Regards
Maurice Cooper
When you are trying to engage the gooseneck and boom are you doing it with the outhaul on or off? It is extremely difficult if you try to so it with tension on the foot of the sail. You must also make sure the kicker and cunningham are fully released—- it is important to have the sail fully raised before you engage the gooseneck since only by doing that can you get the correct sail shape.
It is not abnormal for the clew not to reach the black band on the boom and I would not worry about it.
Maurice Cooper
Many thanks Oliver and Norman. Yes the measurement form 4b gives what we want. The reason for not copying what we have is that it may not be the original and, therefore, may not be in the correct position
Kind regards
Maurice
Hi Dave,
I refer you to the section in the members’ library entitled ‘a beginner’s guide to rigging a GP14, which may be helpful. The most used method of hoisting a spinnaker is to have the 1:2 hoist along the bottom of the boat. This system has the advantage of not needing a well tensioned forestay up which to run, and allows a quicker hoist since the rope length needed is less. Care need to be taken to prevent the exposed halliard getting tangled with either the pole or the pole retaining ring on the mast. This is achieved by ensuring the loose halliard is positioned behind the spreaders after dropping the sail.
Hoisting with the sail which is stowed on the leeward side is just a matter of hoisting, but fouling of with the genoa can occur. This may be avoided by hoisting the sail as the crew pushes the pole out to clip it on the mast, or by keeping the genoa fully cleated in until the kite is hoisted. A windward hoist is achieved by the crew picking up the sail and throwing it out so that it clears the front of the genoa—-difficult on a reach and may best be achieved by the helm bearing away to a broad reach or run for a few seconds whilst the throw is carried out.
The spinnaker is always pulled down on the windward side and placed in the boat between the genoa sheet and the front deck (preferably behind a restraining curtain arrangement or into bags)
The sheet/guy is normally a single continuous tapered rope for the sheet/guy running via fairleads (or through deck) via camcleats (used normally only when cruising) from one side to the other across the boat. The halliard is attached to the top of the kite but has a knot and bobble approximately 4 ins from the attachment point to prevent the top of the spinnaker touching the mast when hoisted.
The best way to ensure the rigging is correct is to fully rig the boat on shore and to hoist the kite and correct any fouls there and then.
I hope this helps
Maurice Cooper
