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Viewing 11 posts - 46 through 56 (of 56 total)
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  • in reply to: History and details of Don marine #18399
    Chris
    Participant

    Give Glynn a call at SP Boats. He was there for a long time.

    in reply to: Buying a boat. Will it fit in my garage ? #18180
    Chris
    Participant

    I’m going to throw a curveball in. I have no idea of your budget, but what about a Hartley12? Have a look on the Hartley Boats website.

    I have sailed Wanderers all be they especially old and decrepit examples that had been sailed almost to death by the Birmingham Schools and then by my sailing club. They were exceedingly heavy to handle ashore, you stand little chance of moving them around the dinghy park by yourself depending on the nature of the dodgy back. They are more roomy inside and are more cruiser than racer as already mentioned.

    The GP I believe to be lighter than the Wanderer depending on the GP in question. Some of the Series 1 hulls are very heavy, the weight rule is a minimum and some builders made little effort to acheive it! Ive little experience of the early plastic GPs but I know that the single skin plastic Solos and Merlins were way overweight to get the panel thickness strong enough. Of course a GP has a lot more weight to play with but this needs to be considered.

    If you’re not looking bargain basement I think you stand a better chance. Most Series 2 hulls were down to weight when built of done by a decent builder, though poorly stored examples “soak up” a surprising amount (My resurrected Duffin “lost” 4 kilos between being finished and the start of the world champs last summer!!). Also newer examples have around 10kg lead correctors which if you’ve no intention to race the boat ever can be removed – 10 minutes will put it back when you sell the boat.

    Weight of course is not everything you should consider but it’s important to know that you’ll get what you think you’ll get. My previous club bought 3 Laser 2000s as they were supposed to be lighter than the existing wayfarers – they weren’t, Laser were very creative with the hull weight on their marketing!

    The GP will do what you want, but please have a look at the Hartley website as I think the 12 will tick more boxes for you. I hate the plastic pop outs but in your case I think its up your street. I think the mast *might* be two piece too, though it wouldn’t need to be garaged.

    in reply to: Jib Halyard Sheave #18057
    Chris
    Participant

    This would have had a double inline pulley to take the halyard through the tube and exit into the luff track. You wont find a new one.

    I would suggest – depending on your intended use – that you get a younger Proctor mast with spreaders. This may seem drastic but your boat will perform better, be easier to rig and sail. The IYE masts were nothing more than a wooden mast made of aluminum.

    I can help with a mast if required.

    in reply to: Forestay replacement #17951
    Chris
    Participant

    Mine is very thin dyneema 1.5mm ish, certainly thinner than the more usual 2mm. Its terminated at each end with an eye splice, the spice at the lower end is adjustable and it has elastic sewn through it to take up the slack under tension.

    The crux of this is what is the forestay actually for? In the somewhat unlikely event of a jib halyard failure the mast is going nowhere due to the gate. On a racing boat it seems that the sole purpose is to support the mast in the dinghy park. Wire is over the top for this load wise, thin dyneema is both lighter and gives less windage over the Genoa.

    On a cruising boat where weight and windage are of less significance and the boat might be used under mainsail only something with more meat is probably advisable.

    in reply to: Restoring colour to deck veneer #17645
    Chris
    Participant

    Thats frost damage.

    You shouldn’t need to treat it, it should sand out after you’ve stripped the varnish back.

    in reply to: Restoring colour to deck veneer #17635
    Chris
    Participant

    Oxalic acid is the stuff to use to bleach out black water staining. It comes in crystal form that you dissolve in water. It is poisonous so wear gloves and stare carefully.

     

    It wont touch colour change due to UV exposure – thats 80 grit and elbow grease! On an 80s boat there should be plenty of veneer to play with provided no-one has hit it too hard before.

    in reply to: THICKNESS OF RIGGING #17326
    Chris
    Participant

    On a wooden mast you will never get anywhere near break loads but 3mm 1×19 stainless wire would be usual. Roll swaged terminals are unnecessary  on a wooden spar, standard copper ferrules/thimbles (Hard eye) will be perfectly adequate.

    I’d use the same on your forestay as it will be supporting the jib. Again, you’ll be nowhere near the breakloads.

    in reply to: Can't get sails to black bands #16964
    Chris
    Participant

    The bolt rope on the luff of both mainsails has shrunk. A local sailmaker will be able to help either by complete replacement, splicing a piece on the end or if the manufacturer has left a tail sticking out just dragging the sail down a bit.

    This happens with age, not use.

    re the foot – the same can happen here too, but ive rarely had a sail on any class that pulls right out.

    • This reply was modified 5 years, 7 months ago by Chris.
    Chris
    Participant

    Theres a wooden mast hanging up in my workshop. It needs completely refinishing, and probably splitting in two and reglueing. This will be easier Tham making one from scratch, and should give a perfect mast.

    It isnt mine to sell/give away, but I want it gone! We are North Birmingham, UK.

    Email me if I can help – paramedic3602ATyahoo.co.uk

    in reply to: A few carpentry issues…. #14645
    Chris
    Participant

    If you need to know anything specific to your boat Glyn Walker probably built it and works at SP Boats. He’s very helpful and likes to hear about his old boats.

    in reply to: Bell Woodworking restoration #13017
    Chris
    Participant

    Keelbands.

    These are probably 1/4 inch half round brass, very heavy, and by now very much more copper than brass. If you take them off they will probably break, the screws too will be very brittle.

    Now, if they are still bare metal it may be as well to leave well alone, mask them out and repaint.

    However if -as is likely – they have about 12 layers of paint on them i would take them off with a view to cleaning them up and replace with new aluminium band if they break up. New band is available pre drilled and ally will be much lighter and will not tarnish.

    I dont like keel band thats been painted over, it looks horrible and is a bad water trap.

Viewing 11 posts - 46 through 56 (of 56 total)