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Well:
when you apply the kicker the thrust will push the boom forwards, which will bend the mast and reduce the distance between the hounds and chainplates. The mast being forced into the gate won’t help this (400lbs gate open is different to gate closed)
So, yes, applying a lot of kicker will reduce the rig tension. If you are actually seeing slack shrouds I would have to question why you’re using so much kicker? If you are seeing a wobbly leeward shroud when sitting out this is normal. any more than that and something is wrong.
I would imagine that new sails will probably be cut for through deck sheeting by default if they don’t ask you.
Those tracks are much too far inboard. But I think you have good information and should proceed as suggested. The rest looks really good!
I think as a sanity check once marked up the in/out position of the slot should be no further inboard than the shroud.
Fore/aft measurements will be the same as any other boats and I would trust the GingerBoats measurement given above even over what exists on the boat. Remember that with the sheet position lower the block in the deck will need to be further back than old sliding car was. Genoas for through deck sheeting are also cut differently at the clew. You may need to lower your existing genoa on its luff wire (If you can) to get a sheeting angle that works, but it will always be slightly compromised whatever you do. Whether this matters depends upon your aspirations.
Ive seen all sorts of ways to make an old genoa suit a through deck system, shackles under the tack to “tip” the Genoa backwards – all sorts! Unfortunately the best solution will be a good second hand genoa.
Then gap is too prevent the mast jumping out of the step on classes that use enormous amounts of rake or to make the adjustment of the mast foot a one pin operation on classes like the solo where adjustment is commonplace.
I think you’ll find that no part of the mast may be behind the rearmost measurement point and the point doesn’t refer to the position of the bolt itself.
Artificial light shows all sorts of “defects” that are otherwise invisible.
I would be inclined to not worry about it.
It could be amine blush from the epoxy – did you scotch it with hot soapy water before rubbing out down? If its this you’ve got to back to virtually nothing to eliminate it, which if you cant see it outside is a pretty major task for not a lot of gain – annoying though it is! I saw someone’s OK do this a couple of weeks ago also varnished this summer on you can clearly see it outside. What resin was it?
Anything milky or cloudy is almost always moisture. What varnish did you use? Is it visible outside? Flourescent light shows imperfections that afrenmt really there. Sometimes it will bleed out over a few weeks/months. Some of the two pack brands are mixed by weight and its very, very critical to get right. If it isnt right, its not fully cured and if you wet flat it……..
Same applies if its insufficiently stirred.
The name rings a distant bell as a boatbuilder, but not as a builder of GPs.
I am presuming the boat is a Series 1 aka Mk1 wooden hull?
Why do you ask the question? If you are after a soundly built boat a visit to see it should tell you all you need to know. The “mass produced” 60s and 70s hulls tended to suffer from cheap ply, steel screws and iffy glue. They were not resin coated and certainly not intended to last 40-50 years when built! The fact that many do is testament to the craftsmanship of the time – only the better ones survive outside.
My point is that if you go and look at it all of those problems will be immediately apparent if the boat has them, and if the boat is in good order if you maintain it well chances are it will stay that way.
Will it be fast? That is another question! I suspect if it was a priority you would be looking for a Series 2 boat.
It’s not easy at all, access to put the structure under the deck is very awkward without cutting holes in the side. When built this is all put in place before the deck was fitted. The wooden ones are much easier.
My recommendation would be to buy a boat with through deck sheeting if you want a plastic boat! Sorry
All the advice above is good 🙂
Last thing from me is that most people think its the back of the gasket that does all the work and affects performance (if this is important), it’s actually the front that does the most and its the front that causes the water to pour in over the top of the case if its either wrong or worn out.
If you’re sailing on the Welsh Harp you have the O’Neill brothers on site at Welsh Harp Boat Centre. They are also Sovereign Trailers which are very, very good. Not the cheapest but far better than an Ikea flat pack and if you’re patient and keep an eye on ebay a suitable road base will turn up secondhand.
The trolley is the most important part of your non-sailing kit. If its wrong it could damage your boat or damage you. A GP14 is a heavy boat and needs a good trolley – Don’t cheap out on it 🙂
Brass keelband is piano beading 🙂
Exactly the same
Its personal taste but I think I’d probably use aluminium if it were mine
On a boat like this I think I’d use phenolic plywood for the floorboards. No need to coat and already gripped! It’s expensive but will last for ages.
The tip will take it but not in boat form. You’ll have to chop it up. They’ll take it because its better than you fly-tipping it somewhere which is what some people would do otherwise………..
However it will have/find a use even if it never takes to the water again. Garden planter/kids play area etc etc
