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Hi Paul, no argument with any of Oliver’s suggestions. Additionally, if the lever is suitably located for you to operate it while reaching the forestay, pulling hard on (across) the forestay takes a lot of tension off the halyard. I’ve done it and know it’s possible with the lever fitted above deck level. not sure about anywhere else.
Enjoy the boat,
Norman
Hello Lesley,
You don’t say how the support is attached to the trailer nor what is the general state of the trolley. My old West Mersea trolley has the supports welded on, so an “off the shelf” replacement may be an unlikely option. If the cradle and its attachment are sound you could consider a local welding engineer making/attaching a support but take Oliver’s advice and do some research locally.
Happy New Year,
Norman
Hello Oliver,
No need for a picture, terminating with a knot at the lacing eye seems to give enough take-up. Thanks for the interest.
Norman
Thanks Oliver,
I’m proposing to experiment and see if terminating the shock cord at the front lacing eye provides a long enough pull. If not it will need some head-scratching. Will report back.
Norman
Thanks Steve,
It is a Speed boat but sadly I’m the dinosaur club member with the only GP. The downhaul is threaded through a small bullet block “A” below the foredeck and ends in a bullet block “B” with control lines led back to the thwart. The slack is taken up by shockcord attached to block “A”, across to a turning block on the hull, and back, around a turning block near the shroud plate. I am wondering where to terminate it, the logical place seems to be through the eye carrying the first turning block but I was looking for confirmation.
Kind regards,
Norman
Thanks Oliver,
There’s something wrong with my ability find stuff on the site, good to be pointed in the right direction.
Norman
I’m perhaps being Nannyish, but Oliver has much experience and a very well set up boat. An inexperienced sailor might prefer to prepare for coming ashore with a stationary, rather that potentially moving boat, at least until he/she has had a bit of practice and developed confidence and technique.
Norman
Hi Chris,
I have sailed mainly single-handed in recent years without any modifications other than tying the jib sheets as recommended by Simon, but I had already been sailing the boat for quite a number of years and readily agree that the reefing suggestions made above are far more seamanlike. Sailing mainly from a lee-shore beach I have found an anchor very useful in allowing me to stop and lower the main before coming ashore. My biggest problem is handling the boat ashore, so I suggest that you also look carefully at an easy loading, easy rolling, well-balanced trolley.
Enjoy,
Norman
PS. I should have looked at the photo in the earlier post, my launching trolley has a much more forgiving buffer pad than that illustrated.
Norman
The force moving the boat backwards when towing is relatively low. A short length of cord threaded through the stemhead fitting and round the forward mast support will easily hold it. Perhaps not purist but a fitting capable of holding 400 lbs in tension will not be harmed by a few pounds in shear. If your boat is old enough to have raised comings, or even to recognise that the decks slope, think about shaped contact pads under the strongbacks recommended by the others. Also, if you ever need to move the trailer without a boat, consider the bracket approach to attaching the number plate rather than fixing it permanently.
Safe travelling,
Norman
Hi Karle, Have just, by chance, discovered a baler like the one in Chris’s link in my garage. I think it is sound. I always called it an Elvstrom baler, but that was years ago. Contact me on bjdnursery@gmail.com and it’s yours for the postage.
Regards, Norman
Hello
I’m sure someone on the technical side will comment. My understanding is that the earliest series 2 wooden boats were considered to have too much buoyancy low down, leading them to invert very quickly. I think it was the builder was Derek Jolly who considered this to be a dangerous situation so the holes were cut to allow the spaces to flood.
Regards,
Norman Day
Hi Oliver,
Years ago my club held regular winter meetings with occasional films. One which appeared most winters was of Australian 18 ft skiffs. It might not be still available or quite what you want, but at the time the sight of 3-section spinnaker poles having to be assembled on the water was considered impressive. The then Secretary was an orthopedic surgeon and one of his film offerings was a training film on hip replacement!
Success to the venture,
Norman
Hi Oliver,
Totally agree with your outside correspondent re not capsizing the boat. It can work well with an active person and the “scoop” method of righting a capsize, but the prospect of two people, one incapacitated, in the space between the boom and the hull is horrifying. Without the presence of an inordinate amount of masthead buoyancy, the most likely outcome is two people underneath an inverted boat. Calling for assistance even before contacting the victim would seem to be logical, followed by safely securing him/her to the boat and taking account of the difference between buoyancy aid and lifejacket with regard to keeping the head above water.
Hi Laura,
Looking at Oliver’s link I inadvertedly clicked on a general search and discovered that there are lots of laboratory suppliers on Ebay with solid rubber bungs. Should you choose that option you could secure the bungs by using a sailmaker’s needle to thread a cord through the centre and end it with a stopper knot at the wider end. If you then thread the cord as a loop through the holes in the transom before dealing with the second bung you end up with both bungs hanging secure and always to hand. Just another option.
Cheers, Norman
