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Hi Rob,
You could try taking a piece of your old rubbing strip to your local timber supplier. They may be able to shape you lengths of a matching profile. Ask for sapele if you want to coat it in epoxy, iroko if you want to oil it.
I fitted 3mm, 12 strand dyneema.
You can bury, with a 4mm fid, some elastic through centre of the dyneema to take up the slack. The ends of the elastic could be stitched or dead ended with an overhand knot.
Given a breaking strain of a metric ton, it should be fine.
This idea was nicked from various other people’s boats. It’s a pretty common sight.
Thanks Norman. I think the way forward is to ditch the spring loaded nylon locator. I intend to add to it’s “axle” a “bobbin” of some kind to overcome the friction inherent in the routing of a down haul.
The one thing these stocks have going for them is their stiffness. Seems good.
Hi Ben,
I have 12811, another Don Marine boat, still going strong and built in the same year.
I did the mast step conversion- definitely the way forward.
As regards where the floor bearers meet the cb case, after thoroughly drying out the boat, I ran a structural fillet of thickenened epoxy around the joint. This, with the conversion makes for a very stiff case.
Obviously, if you have any leakage around the case, think very carefully about this approach. Heat will get it apart again, but you’ll have to refinish the case.
250 cm, bow snubber to axle is the correct distance for the launching trolley. The aft cradle is often 30cm back from the axle, making the boat less “tippy” on the trolley.
Nose weight wants to be between 9 and 16 percent of gross trailered weight.
Wow. It’s eye opening reading about your experience with this boat. Hope you manage to the problems ironed out.
Hi Steve,
Great photos. I have the same job to do on 13420. Just wondering if you sorted out your gunwale issue?
13420 has suffered a very similar fate to 13464. Transom is intact, aft and side deck have lifted. Foredeck is solid. Mast chock has split in exactly the same way as yours! Hull is solid.
The “cappings” of the gunwales and inwales have lifted off. The angular section (the one screwed to the hull) that the cappings are glued to is solid and intact.
I’m finding the prospect of building those cappings a bit daunting. How did you get on?
Just a follow up. It’s in and seems to work just fine. Seems to carry the 400lbs of rig tension and the bow tank is bone dry.
The wood for the spine is some 45mm thick sapelle. Once it’s epoxied, I expect it’ll far outlast the rest of the boat.
Thanks for the reply Steve.
I’I just at the point where I have cut the shelf into the case/ filled to the level of frame 2 and I’m now making templates and dry fitting the components. My “measurement 5.5” is smack in the middle of the quoted tolerances.
I followed the conversion sheet as closely as I could. One thing concerns me. I cut the shelf into the case at 90 degrees to the forward face of frame 2. This means the upper face of the spine will also run at 90 degrees to the forward face of frame 2. The lower face is profiled to the curve of the hog.
This seemed like a correct interpretation to the plan for the conversion, but I’m hesitant. It seems to produce the correct measurement but, shouldn’t the mast pad be flat relative to the baseline/ waterline?
Sorry Oliver, my mistake. I meant frame 2, immediately forward of the centreboard case- 83.5mm above the hog.
The case is actually lower than the frame so as the plans suggest, I’ll need to fill in. I think cutting the case and filling space with the plinth is a good idea.
The whole thing will be dry fitted and measured before the epoxy goes near anything.
Thanks Oliver, I appreciate your advice.
So far, I have the old mast step out, the bulkhead cut open and I’m making good some damage from the previous owners botched repair (fibreglass over damp wood does indeed trap the moisture in, allowing the wood to rot) to allow me to get to a starting point. I’ll post photos shortly.
Just as a follow up to this:
The starboard, aft corner was totally rotten. Transom was ok but the frame, rubbing strake and deck/ hull ply were toast completely rotten. Not the quick fix the previous owner assured me it would be! Photos to follow.
