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  • in reply to: Centre Board #15042
    Chris Hearn
    Keymaster

    Exactly as Oliver says!

    If you want to know what a friction brake looks like, I think you should be able to view this “old brake” from my boat…

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/pTN99ZeMS2d5zmgf8

     

    in reply to: Stepping mast single-handed #14746
    Chris Hearn
    Keymaster

    Seamus, Oliver

    Re posting on the forum – the html is about styling – best NOT to use applications that produce text styling.

    On Windows, “Notepad” is ok as it does not format. For other apps,  right click and then choose “paste as plain text” then that will be fine.

    I have just tested TextEdit using a MacBook Pro (and Safari) – the quick answer is:

    • It will NOT work properly just pasting with CMD-V – it will look ok until you save it, when the html is converted as your previous posts showed. (This is a security feature, as unrestricted HTML can be an issue)
    • I think it may work if you choose the Text tab, then CMD-V to paste into the edit area (UNDER the rows of icons). Then click submit button. It should strip any HTML styling.

    I kindly suggest any further tests are done under a new forum topic – results can then be summarised in one post and the thread removed.

    Chris

     

     

     

    • This reply was modified 6 years, 8 months ago by Chris Hearn. Reason: Edited to add MacBook and TextEdit result
    • This reply was modified 6 years, 8 months ago by Chris Hearn.
    in reply to: Securing GP14 Mast Gate #14708
    Chris Hearn
    Keymaster

    As Oliver says!
    I also have a wooden boat – Pivot end a large round-head screw, other end I have araldited a “penny washer” to the boat, with another large round-head screw.Close the gate, then tighten just enough to give slight friction on the gate when closed Ditto the pivot end – tightened just enough to give a little friction.

    Chris Hearn
    Keymaster

    Yes, 4mm line would be fine – and maybe a 20mm block. You can buy a block complete with a hook if that suited you, although I use a shackle (shackle size depends on distance to the eyelet, would need to measure to make sure its long enough). Have a browse through the chandlers to see the options etc. (There are other chandlers available too!)
    e.g. https://www.tridentuk.com/gb/catalogsearch/result/?q=Allen+20mm+block

    Chris

    Chris Hearn
    Keymaster

    Hi, people have all sorts of different rigs – you may be able to tell how yours was set up bu noting how many control lines /cleats there are on each side at the thwart.

    For example, I have a Series 2 GP, but only the kicker is fed to each side, and cunningham terminates under the boom – see below.

    If you already have several cleats  each side at the thwart, then simply terminate the cunningham/outhaul line in a block, and  feed a second line through the block to each side of the thwart.
    Same principle for the outhaul. See the blue rope/block in this picture: https://get.google.com/albumarchive/108162080692365982718/album/AF1QipMebfTCFU1AN_OsGxovVkoCUKLjKdzKA0AgHWS_/AF1QipPH2ywmm_7wPPOWAWZASkLwPHFpqrlveB0J0ZUK

    The cunningham on my boat works as follows. A thin rope (approx 2mm) tied off at the gooseneck is then fed up and through the cunninham eyelet on the sail luff, down to the bottom of the boat,  through a block at the base of the mast, and then up through the centreboard casing near the thwart to a cleat. (Work fine unless you want to be tweaking the cunningham a lot during a race)

    Some modern boats (e.g. Winder) have the lines running actually inside the centreboard casing itself (avoids crew standing on the lines!)

    The outhaul rope starts at the (back) end of the boom, runs through a block (attached to a shackle which is attached to the outhaul eyelet) then back down the INSIDE of the boom, emerging under the boom about 15″ back from the gooseneck.
    See these pictures from our archive: https://get.google.com/albumarchive/108162080692365982718/album/AF1QipMebfTCFU1AN_OsGxovVkoCUKLjKdzKA0AgHWS_/AF1QipOX11ERgVvjbfqU3nIN8EkZV54q7hGlp1RArkkE

    There is a cleat under the boom and a small block. So to tighten the outhaul I just pull on the rope under the boom – to loosen, flip it out of the block (it’s actually quite easy to do – and because they are close to it, that’s usually the crew’s job!)

    So that may give you some clues!

    There are a lot of pictures of rigging photos here: http://gp14.org/members/members-2/all-about-your-gp14/
    click the link “Rigging Photos”
    Best of luck!

    Chris

    in reply to: Reefing a Series 2 Holt-Speed FRP GP14 #14657
    Chris Hearn
    Keymaster

    The boat sounds like it’s set up for racing, with racing spars and sails (rather than cruising sails) and a centre mainsheet block.
    I am sure Oliver can provide more info on reefing points etc. as I am not familiar with that!

    • This reply was modified 6 years, 8 months ago by Chris Hearn.
    in reply to: Complete Beginners guide to the GP14 rigging #14524
    Chris Hearn
    Keymaster

    Hi, I found this document buried in our website  http://gp14.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Rigging_guide-1.pdf which should help you!

    in reply to: Stepping mast single-handed #14475
    Chris Hearn
    Keymaster

    @Oliver

    Excellent document, and I use that method on my wooden Mk2.

    One little addition to prepping the mast – before lifting the mast vertical, insert the burgee! Don’t be one of those in the boat park tipping the boat on it’s side just to add it later!

    I like the boat to be a little “bow down” on the trolley, so that any windage tends just to bring it vertical, rather than on top of me. And when lowering into the boat  I also find it easier to locate the foot before letting the mast back into the gate, which a “bow down” boat helps a bit. Before the shrouds and forestay are attached this makes it easy for mast to enter the gate. Then jump out and loosely attach forestay as you describe – (if forestay is too tight you won’t be able to attach shrouds in the right position) – several people use a bit of bungee in addition to the lanyard – this also stops the forestay going “too loose” once full rig tension is applied.

    Finally I personally also make sure the twinning line is in position behind (i.e. forward) of the mast foot – not such a big deal to re-run it afterwards, but every little helps.

    Cheers

    Chris

    in reply to: Complete Beginners guide to the GP14 rigging #14438
    Chris Hearn
    Keymaster

    Hi Dave,

    There are good clubs nearby to Glossop and I am sure people there would be happy to assist you. I sail at Budworth SC which is not far, so if you would like to visit Budworth then I would be happy to help! Contact me via the association office if this is of interest.

    Budworth SC also have an Open Day on May 5th – I may be pretty busy but I am sure myself or another GP14 sailor can talk you through the rigging – it can be a bit daunting but help is available!

    Chris

    • This reply was modified 6 years, 9 months ago by Chris Hearn.
    in reply to: Gp14 rigging questions #14279
    Chris Hearn
    Keymaster

    @Oliver

    Interesting method of hoisting the mainsail that Oliver prefers. I have to say I do it slightly differently…

    I hoist the mainsail most of the way up with the boom in the boat. Once the boom begins to rise (i.e. is suspended by the sail) I then attach the boom to the gooseneck, and only then hoist the sail the final metre or so to the top black band. The reason I do it this way is that in high winds I don’t like the the boom thrashing around next to me – also if the sail is hoisted fully it can be very difficult to attach the boom to the gooseneck in stronger winds. However, Oliver has a vast experience, and I am racing not cruising, so I suggest you try both and see which works best for you – like everything, there is “more than one way to skin the cat” – it’s just a matter of preference! The main thing is “enjoy your sailing!”

    Chris

     

    in reply to: Gp14 rigging questions #14251
    Chris Hearn
    Keymaster

    Hi Mike,

    Although it may seem strange, that arrangement is quite correct and usual. The reason is that the mainsail does not require a lot of tension in the luff. The rope halyard is fine to hoist it to the top black band on the mast. A “cunningham” can be used to increase the tension down the luff in strong winds if needed.

    The genoa, on the other hand, needs a lot of tension, (350-400lbs) in order to create a straight entry point for the wind, and prevent “luff sag”.

    There are some good explanations of how to set up your GP14, i.e. “tuning” guides on the site in the Members Area.

    Choose from the menu “Members”=>”All About your GP14” and see the Tuning Guides from Speedsails and others

    Hope that helps!

    Chris (Webmaster)

    in reply to: GP14 restoration. Internal compartments #13476
    Chris Hearn
    Keymaster

    Ooh yes, that’s quite right Oliver! As my GP14 was built in 1997, so is now 20 years old, it only has the single corrector and I had forgotten about more “recent” changes!

    in reply to: GP14 restoration. Internal compartments #13469
    Chris Hearn
    Keymaster

    Hi David,

    Oliver has covered the restoration very comprehensively. I have an older GP14, sail number 13509, and it has varnish on the inside of the cockpit but minimal in the forward compartment – I was told this is to allow the wood to breathe and moisture somewhere to escape. Whatever the merits or otherwise, I have never had any problem on my boat, which is considerably older than yours. However I do leave the hatch cover off when not on the water – which is good practice especially in summer when expanding air on hot days can create a lot of pressure inside the bow compartment.

    It seems odd to have a lack lack of finishing, to then have to fit a load of lead weights to bring it into class?  Is this common practice on new GP14’s” .

    Lack of finishing is a separate thing. It is common practice to add lead weights. All boats want to be a minimum weight for racing, so the builder makes them a little underweight and adds lead to bring them up to the legal minimum.
    An advantage for wooden boats is that they do tend to increase in weight with age, so the lead can then be adjusted.
    Having said that, I found it impossible to remove the weight on my boat as it was very well fixed under the thwart and the screw head slots were poor. I didn’t pursue it because I reckon at my level of skill the “guy in the back” is making much more difference than a few kilos of lead, so the focus should be on getting my skill level up 🙂
    I do look at my rig setup though, as again I reckon that’s a bigger impact for racing if it is set up poorly. If I was competing at a higher level that would be different!

    Chris

    in reply to: Forum or Facebook feed? #10666
    Chris Hearn
    Keymaster

    @warsashod,

    Yes, agree with the point about FB search abilities.
    And I hope to begin to provide some articles such as suggested in this thread – top tips or similar!
    Finally, also plan to split up the _very_ long page of Member info into shorter chunks, so that tuning etc. will exist on a separate page from the “drier” Association information.
    Chris (new webmaster!)

    in reply to: beginner #5167
    Chris Hearn
    Keymaster

    Thank you so much Oliver for all of the information l really appreciate your feedback a well balanced reply.

Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 45 total)