› Forums › Forum › Rudder blade control lines

Tagged: 

Viewing 11 reply threads
  • Author
    Posts
    • 05/06/2017 at 12:13 pm #11944
      warsashod
      Participant

      Hi,

      I find my rudder blade difficult to raise or lower – the cleated line seems particularly difficult to release.

      The line is a single piece, coming from the haul up attachment point , through the top of a V jam cleat on the side of the tiller then  exiting to become to the downhaul attachment – is this a normal ararngement?  I have, on the few occasions I’ve been out, found this not at all intuitive and hard to use – either lowering the rudder on launch, or retracting it when beaching.  We launch in a reasonably narrow river and don’t have a lot of wriggle room either way and wrestling with the rudder doesn’t enhance my sailing experience!  Even an experienced chap (instructor) who came out with me found it awkward.

      I have looked at loads of photos & rigging guides dinghies for of all flavours,  but haven’t found much about this.  Are there other methods or is this something I just need to learn?

      Many thanks

       

       

    • 05/06/2017 at 12:30 pm #11947
      Oliver Shaw
      Moderator

      I agree that this arrangement is inherently unsatisfactory!

       

      I would scrap the existing strap-type jam cleat.  Replace with the purpose-designed CL257 auto-release cleat for the downhaul,  and as a bonus this will automatically trip if the blade hits the bottom (or an obstruction),  thereby protecting the boat from potentially very serious damage.    For the uphaul use whatever jammer you prefer,  but a small clam cleat has been my choice on all my boats in recent years.

       

      At the same time,  check that the blade is as free as possible to move vertically,  while having (ideally) zero play laterally;   in the first instance this is a matter of making sure that the sliding surfaces are in good condition and not cho9ked with grit,  and then carefully adjust the tension of the pivot bolt until the lateral play ONLY JUST disappears.   Indeed if it proves absolutely necessary,  the barest hint of lateral play may be acceptable if that is the only way to get the blade moving freely vertically.

       

      Photos attached.    Email me if you would like more info or additional photos

       

       

      Oliver

    • 05/06/2017 at 12:32 pm #11949
      Oliver Shaw
      Moderator

      Sorry,  I tried to upload two photos but only one has appeared.   I now realise why,  and think I have discovered how to upload more than one.

      Here are three more (I hope!)

       

       

      Oliver

    • 07/06/2017 at 9:49 am #11956
      warsashod
      Participant

      Oliver,

      Thanks for this. I like the look of the auto-release clamcleat. Two separate lines makes more sense to me and I would colour code them.

      I’m in the process of glueing a crack in the blade, so have an opportunity to fettle the pivot action.

      Thank you for your time.

      Jonathan

    • 07/06/2017 at 8:03 pm #11975
      Oliver Shaw
      Moderator

      Yes,  most certainly two separate lines,  and it is well worth colour coding them.

       

      Oliver

       

    • 21/06/2017 at 10:09 am #12061
      warsashod
      Participant

      Oliver,

      I have just fund your gallery photos of this. One the metal tiller, the clamcleat as at the inboard end and the wooden one has it part way along.  Any advantages/disadvantages of either position?

      And any guidance on appropriate rope?  I don’t know much about the ins & outs, especially for small control lines.

      Thank you,

      Jonathan

    • 21/06/2017 at 11:53 am #12064
      Oliver Shaw
      Moderator

      I don’t think either position of cleat or type of rope is critical.

      I would expect to use 4 mm rope of a type which is reasonably flexible;  polyester is excellent,  and cheap;  either braided or 3-strand,  your preference (or whatever you happen to have in stock).

      Position of the cleat is purely a matter of your personal convenience and preference.   You will occasionally want access while helming,  without an excursion to reach a long way aft.    I think from memory that when I have set up such systems on GP14s I have placed the cleat above a point somewhere within the forward half of the stern deck,  but I stress that it is not critical.

       

      Oliver

    • 20/07/2017 at 6:19 pm #12217
      warsashod
      Participant

      I have replaced the lines & cleat as suggested but tonight’s sailing has been blown out by 20-30kt wind so I can’t test it.  One other point, what do you do with the loose ends of the two lines?

      Thank you

      Jonathan

    • 21/07/2017 at 5:38 pm #12227
      steve13003
      Participant

      I normally just wrap the ends around the tiller, make sure that the ropes are not longer than EYC need to be as this reduces the amount of loos rope to keep out of the way of your feet.

      Steve

    • 22/07/2017 at 6:04 pm #12230
      Oliver Shaw
      Moderator

      I cut them to the length they need to be (when fully retracted);   then when pulled fully home the length of loose end is not enough to worry about,  so I just leave them loose.

       

      Oliver

    • 27/07/2017 at 11:57 am #12260
      warsashod
      Participant

      Thank you. Still won’t be able to test it though, as too windy again tonight.

    • 28/07/2017 at 1:14 pm #12275
      Oliver Shaw
      Moderator

      I sympathise with you finding it too windy to sail yesterday;   I sailed into Tenby on Tuesday evening in my 20-ft trailer-sailer,  and have been here weather-bound ever since.     On the latest forecast I seem likely to be here for another week yet!

       

      Oliver

  • Author
    Posts
Viewing 11 reply threads
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.