I am struggling with a difficult mobile connection,  and viewing your photos in sunlight,  so I am having some difficulty with them.

Very clearly the varnish is discoloured and is lifting in the affected areas;    I take your word about the actual wood lifting as this is not clear in the photos,  but so far as I can judge any gap between parts of the wood is still small.

I suggest that you remove the damaged varnish;  your choice whether to use a chemical stripper (and I find the Originl Nitromors,  in the yellow can,  by far the best on the market) or a hot air gun;   but do use a seriously sharp scraper,  and keep it sharp.    My choice nowadays for scrapers is one of the (limited number of models) with a silicon carbide blade;   they come ready sharpened,  they keep their edge vastly longer than ordinary tool steel,  and when the edge does go you simply replace the blade.

Having removed the varnish (from the damaged area only) you can then better assess the wood.    Use a thin blade to clean out any gaps so far as possible.   You then need to endeavour to insert fresh adhesive,  preferably without taking the joint apart,  and that is difficult.   Two good options to consider:

(1)  neat epoxy run into the joint,  perhaps injected with a large hypodermic syringe (you may well be able to buy this from the same chandler as you buy the epoxy,  and you want a cheap plastic hypodemic because you will use it only once and then throw it away).  WEST recommend that you do not thin the epoxy to help it to penetrate,  because this degrades its strength;   instead they recommend that you warm both the work and the mixed epoxy in order to reduce its viscosity,  but if you intend doing this you should then use the slow hardener in order to still allow a reasonable working time before it goes off.

(2)  WEST now have a new product available,  called something like SIX-10 or perhaps SIX-50,   which may be helpful.   This is a two-part thickened epoxy which comes in a cartridge which contains the two separate parts and which fits a standard cartridge gun,  and the nozzle is a specially designed mixing tube,  so what emerges from the end is ready-mixed.    The benefit of this product for your particular job is that by placing the nozzle hard against the gap you may be able to force the thickened mixed epoxy into the gap.

That deals with the structure.    will respond later regarding the varnish.

Hope this helps,

Oliver

Hello Les

First congratulations on becoming the owner of GP14 12811 and welcome to the GP14 Association.

After looking at your photo’s enlarged on a desktop monitor I do not consider you have a major problem and tend to agree with the advice given by Oliver; that is to make a permanent repair using Epoxy then strip and revarnishing the affected area. You have indicated this would be during the winter and are looking at a temporary repair now so you can enjoy some sailing in the mean time. My advice for a temporary repair if appearance is not an issue would be to; dry the area best you can then cover the cracks with duct tape and sail on for the rest of the year.

When you decide to make a permanent repair I would offer the additional suggestions:

• Before you start thoroughly dry out the affected area, possibly with gentle heat or a dehumidifier positioned blowing from inside the affected corner.
• Clean out debris and old glue from the failed joints (I use a fine tooth hacksaw blade). When pressure is applied with a clamp or weights to the deck it will close the gap and when glued the deck will be flush with the gunnel.
• Mask off an area you don’t want spoiled by over-runs or splashes of epoxy. Glue and fill all the gaps and fillet the inside corners for extra strength – this procedure may need more than one application.
• It is not a large area to strip back the varnish; I would use a dry scraper on any loose or peeling varnish (could do this before glueing), then use a sander to flatten the filler, feather into the sound varnish and prepare the surface for sealing and revarnishing. It is unlikely you will remove all the water staining that is evident, common to see it on boats a few years old. Caution do not over sand the deck and transom; otherwise you will go through the top ply. If you discover any soft wood a coating of epoxy may suffice, avoiding replacing it with new timber.

I hope this is of some help; please do not hesitate to get back in touch if you need clarification or need further help

Good sailing hope we see you on the water soon

Duncan

It where the split might be sensible when you do the full job to put backing pieces underneath the deck where the split tails go though.

Painter:  I would recommend around 10 to 15 feet “working length”,  i.e. measured beyond the stem,  but be guided by the local conditions at your normal club or sailing base;  see what length other owners use.    Add to that the distance from the stem of the boat to wherever you intend to secure the painter.    With modern ropes the diameter is determined by comfort in handling;  even if it is far too thin for comfort it will often have enough actual strength.    I would recommend 6 to 8 mm rope,  fairly soft and supple,  and my personal choice of construction for this is 3-strand because it is easy to splice;   as regards material,  polyester is perfectly adequate for a painter.

I see no need for the painter to have any stretch,  but it is very advantageous for an anchor warp to have stretch,  and the recommendation for the latter is nylon,  for that reason.   However polyester,  provided it is not pre-stretched,  is almost as stretchy as nylon and is an adequate substitute.   And indeed back in the sixties,  when we knew no better,  many of us used 3/4-inch prestretched terylene,  the least stretchy material of the day,  and in that respect the worst possible choice,  as standard for our anchor warps,  and never had a problem with that choice.   But stretchy nylon is better.

If you intend sailing on the sea you do need an anchor,  and I would recommend either a good Danforth-type or a good Bruce-type,  at around 2 kg,  with a couple of metres of 6 mm chain and 30 m of 6 mm warp.   Avoid folding grapnel anchors,  which are utterly notorious for not holding;   a leading candidate for the nautical equivalent of the square wheel award.    In dinghy sizes plough types (e.g. the famous CQR) are also best avoided,  as they tend to be unreliable,  although the larger ones work well for yachts.    One of the best of all anchors is the Rocna,   but they are designed for yachts rather than dinghies,  and the minimum size which they make is 4 kg,  which is heavier than you are likely to need.

If intending to anchor you do also need an anchor fairlead,  as close to the stem as possible,  so that the anchor warp is constrained to pull at the stem of the boat and not over the side;   in extremis the latter is a good recipe for a capsize while anchored.   It is also a good idea to use it when temporarily mooring your boat by her painter,  and also when being towed.

Oliver

I should have said that if you intend to sail one the sea or in estuaries you need an anchor;   it is at least as important in estuaries.    There may even be a case for carrying one when sailing on lakes,  for any sailing other than racing.

But if you intend sailing on inland waters only,  and if you intend that inland sailing to be only racing,  then an anchor is probably not needed and you won’t want to carry any excess weight while racing.

Oliver

Hello Les

I consider you are right about mainsheet force causing the deck ply to lift. Fashion changed a few years ago to the system you have with split tail mainsheet. The previous method which sounds like your boat had was with an adjustable mainsheet horse, turning round a block or fairlead on a strong point under the stern deck to the cleats you mention.

I would reinforce the deck as Oliver recommends or provide a fixing on a strong point to end off the split tails. This will remove all verticle pressure from the deck ply. What you are suggesting would be ok but would still have a vertical force component on the deck which I am guessing it was not designed to carry.

Best luck Duncan

• This reply was modified 8 years, 4 months ago by Duncan Greenhalgh.