GP14 Sailing Forums Forum GP14 Series 1 photos

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    • #15126
      fretz
      Participant

      Good morning!

      If anyone is sailing a series 1 woody this weekend I formally request a few photos.

      How do the stays attach to the frame under the deck?

      Turnbuckles or pins to adjust the rig?

      Where are the in floor bailers installed?  how many?

      Hiking straps and their attachment points.

      jib/genoa tracks and cleats.

      Thanks,

      Chris Fretz

       

    • #15127
      Oliver Shaw
      Moderator

      Although I won’t be sailing this weekend it is possible that I may be able to get some photos for you.    I will try,  but can’t promise;   so if anyone else can help,  please do so.

      However I can answer a couple of your questions.   Adjustment of standing rigging;   your choice!   The original boats almost universally used rigging screws (aka bottle screws),  which may perhaps be what our American friends call turnbuckles  –  but here in the UK that term means something different.   http://juststainless.co.uk/wire_parts.asp?cat=JSWS

      However the more modern approach is to use rack type shroud adjusters,  vernier or otherwise,  with just a lanyard for the forestay.  https://www.sailboats.co.uk/selden-dinghy-shroud-adjuster

      The links are not necessarily intended as recommendations,  merely to illustrate general types.

      “Yer pays yer money an’ yer takes yer choice!”

      Self-bailers:  ideally two,  as near the centreline as is reasonably possible,  at the lowest point in the bottom of the boat;   this will be either side of the centreboard case,  just a little forward of the aft end of the case.   By far the most effective design of self-bailer is what used to be called the Elvstrom and is now called the Andersen bailer.   They are available in a range of sizes,  and I would recommend a pair of either the largest or the next size down.   They are available in versions for mounting either externally (in which case you will need to recess the plywood) or internally (in which case you may need to use shims to achieve a flush external profile.   https://www.sailboats.co.uk/elvstrom-andersen-super-max-self-bailer  This link is to just one bailer from the range.

      Hope this is helpful to you.

       

      Oliver

       

    • #15128
      Oliver Shaw
      Moderator

      Ah!  Found six photos of the genoa tracks on Strait Laced,  dating from a little over ten years ago.   The system will allow me to post only four at a time,  so I will post the first four here and the last two in a subsequent post.

      These were taken while the boat was under repair,  and some (mainly the two which are to follow this post) show the tracks in place while others show the tracks removed  –  but the change in colour of the wood clearly shows where they were placed.

      On this boat the tracks were mounted some way inboard,  but it is also clear from the photos that at some time previously (prior to my ownership) they had been much further outboard.   Best advice there is to experiment with the set of your sails ashore,  on a fairly average day  –  say around force 3  –  with a steady wind,  with the boat on her launching trolley or road trailer.    Point the boat at around 45 degrees to the wind,  as though for beating to windward,  and hoist both sails,  and just holding the sheet by hand experiment to see where you are going to want to lead it to on the deck in order to achieve a good shape,  with the sheet roughly in line with the diagonal seam in the sail (if there is one),  with a good slot between the two sails,  and with the sails setting nicely and not fluttering.    That will be a pretty good way of determining where on the deck the tracks are best placed for your particular sails.

      If there is no diagonal seam in the sail three fairly standard dictums are (1) bisect the angle at the clew,  or (2) the line of the sheet (extended) should intersect the luff at right-angles,  or (3) the line of the sheet (extended) should intersect the luff at about its mid-point.    Note that these three are only starting guidelines,  and they may give slightly different results,   but any guide is no more that a point to start from;   then you need to experiment to see what gives the best looking set overall,  with a good aerofoil shape,  a good slot (narrow enough to accelerate the wind flow,  but not so narrow that it backwinds the main),   and both sails setting without fluttering.

       

      Oliver

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    • #15133
      Oliver Shaw
      Moderator

      Final two photos attached.

       

      Oliver

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    • #15143
      Arthur
      Participant

      I have a couple of images of Spark’s genoa/jib tracks. I can get more later this week when I get out to her to do some sanding.

       

    • #15170
      Arthur
      Participant

      I was out at my boat today and used my camera to snap a couple of pictures of how the stays are mounted. I hope this helps.

       

      • #15173
        fretz
        Participant

        Thanks for the photos.  your setup with chainplates is exactly what I have on my boat.

        Oliver has the holes on the deck where the stays pass through.  looks like i have to add a bunch of hardware to make it work so I think im just going to shorten the existing stays and use the existing chainplates with turnbuckles for now.

        Hade you made any progress on your GP?

    • #15174
      Oliver Shaw
      Moderator

      If no-one else comes up with photos of under-deck chainplates I will try to take some;  but it will be some days yet before I can get away from the examining desk and down to the club.

       

      Oliver

       

       

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